SEDGWICK — “Lobster! 55 Fresh & Simple Recipes for Everyday Eating” — food writer Brooke Dojny’s newest culinary/literary adventure — is an homage to “le homard,” from lobster cocktails to lobster and arugula pizza.
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Why confine lobster rolls to the meal-size version? Food writer Brooke Dojny prepares finger-food-sized lobster rolls, and, as a purist, uses toasted split-top rolls.
Jacqueline Weaver
SEDGWICK — “Lobster! 55 Fresh & Simple Recipes for Everyday Eating” — food writer Brooke Dojny’s newest culinary/literary adventure — is an homage to “le homard,” from lobster cocktails to lobster and arugula pizza.
“Living where lobster is king, I had plenty of material,” said Brooke, whose spacious home overlooks the Benjamin River.
Her sources included information culled from among her more than previously published dozen cookbooks; tidbits she picked up from fishermen as well as literature and vintage cookbooks.
The cookbook begins with an introduction to lobster consumption over the years, followed by advice on catching lobsters, buying lobsters, cooking lobsters and eating lobsters.
For the faint of heart Brooke suggests numbing the lobsters prior to their fiery deaths by putting them in the freezer for about 30 minutes.
There is also a page of “lobster lingo” ranging from “bugs,” an affectionate term for lobsters, to “kitchen” and “parlor,” which are chambers within a lobster “pot” or trap.
Brooke loves lobster and its contradictions.
“Lobster is, in some ways, the most opulent meal you can make, yet it’s messy, campy, you break it apart yourself,” she said.
She aims to appeal to the summer cook who wants to indulge their passion for lobster during its most affordable months.
So there is lobster for virtually every meal and in every version — steamed, boiled, baked and stuffed, stewed, lobster rolls and lobster pie, among many others.
Brooke also added a selection of out-of-the-box recipes, such as lobster soft tacos, lobster pizza, lobster and red bliss hash, lobster grits and lobster Mac ’n Cheese.
The back of the book includes recipes for sides, such as creamy coleslaw, dill-pickled beet salad and grilled chili-lime corn on the cob as well as desserts — blueberry pie, of course, and chocolate bread and butter pudding, among others.
Eating lobster, said Brooke, is a total experience.
“I love the whole ritual of eating a steamed lobster with a group of people on newspaper covers or oil cloth, our faces covered with melted butter,” she said.
Lobster Fra Diavolo
5 Tbsps. extra virgin olive oil
5 Tbsps. butter
4 large garlic cloves, minced
¾ cup dry white wine
2 (28 oz.) cans plum tomatoes with juice (use top quality Italian plum tomatoes such as San Narzano, which are available in supermarkets.)
1 (28 oz.) can tomato puree
2 Tbsps. tomato paste
2 tsps. sugar
1½ tsps. red pepper flakes (this amount of pepper flakes will make a moderately spicy sauce. Adjust amounts to your own taste.)
1 tsp. salt
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
¼ chopped fresh oregano
4 small (1¼ lb.) live lobsters, rinsed
¼ cup chopped fresh flat leaf parsley
Toasted Country Bread
Sliced Italian or other crusty bread
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Heat the oil and butter in a very large pot. Add the garlic and cook over medium heat, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the wine, bring to a boil, and cook briskly until reduced by about half, 3 to 4 minutes.
Add the tomatoes, puree and tomato paste, and use kitchen scissors, a potato masher, or the side of a spoon to break the whole tomatoes into small pieces. Add the sugar, pepper flakes, salt, and black pepper, and bring to a boil again. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, until the sauce is quite thick, about 1 hour. Stir in the oregano. (Can be made up to two days ahead and refrigerated).
Split the live lobster. Remove the intestinal veins and head sacs but leave some of the tomalley in the bodies for flavor. If the lobsters are females, leave the shiny black roe in the bodies.
Bring the sauce to a simmer. Add the halved lobsters to the sauce and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and cook, covered, for 20 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the pot stand for 10 minutes to 1 hour to infuse the sauce with lobster flavor.
To make the toasts, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Brush the bread slices with olive oil, season with salt and pepper to taste, and lay them out on a baking sheet. Bake for about 10 minutes, until the toasts are golden brown.
When ready to serve, gently reheat the lobster. Spoon the sauce into shallow bowls, add two lobster halves to each bowl, and sprinkle with parsley. Pass bread for mopping up the sauce. Provide plenty of paper napkins and nutcrackers and lobster picks for extracting the meat. Provide finger bowls and cloth napkins after the meal. For finger bowls, provide attractive bowls with warm water, float a lemon slice on top, and offer each guest a cloth napkin.
Jacqueline Weaver covers the eastern Hancock County towns of Lamoine through Gouldsboro as well as Steuben in Washington County. A New Hampshire native, she has vacationed in Maine for 25 years and has been with The American for three.
Website: ellsworthamerican.com